Building a small jewelry collection that works

Start with the studs. A good pair of small studs is the highest wears-per-dollar piece in jewelry — they go with everything and you will forget you have them in, which is the compliment.

Second: one chain at a length that suits your necklines. Forty to forty-five centimetres works for most wardrobes. Wear it alone for a month before deciding whether you want a pendant on it.

Third: the daily ring. Pick the finger, then pick the width. Slim bands stack; wider bands stand alone. Either way, choose the finish you reach for in other metals — your bag hardware and watch usually know the answer.

Fourth: hoops or drops, depending on temperament. Hoops if you want one earring for everything; drops if evenings matter to you.

Fifth and sixth are where it gets personal — a cuff, a signet, a pearl. By this point you know what you wear, so buy the thing you keep picturing rather than the thing a list told you to.

One last rule: stick to one metal family while building. Mixing metals is fine once you have the foundations, but a matching set compounds — every piece works with every other.